Edmund Optics Purchasing FAQ: Finding the Right Parts & Laser Solutions

You've Got Questions? I've Got Answers (From Real Ordering Experience)

I'm an office administrator who handles purchasing for a mid-size company—around $120k annually across 8 vendors. I've been managing this since 2020, and I've placed a lot of orders with Edmund Optics. This FAQ covers the questions I get most often from colleagues and other buyers. No fluff, just what I've learned.

1. What are the specs for the Edmund Optics part number 20-255 camera?

I get this one a lot. The 20-255 is a monochrome CMOS camera—specifically the EO-3112M model. It's a 1/1.8" sensor, 3.1 MP (2048x1536), with USB 3.0 interface. Frame rate is up to 60 fps at full resolution. I've ordered these for our quality inspection line.

But here's the thing: I always double-check the datasheet because Edmund updates specs sometimes. As of January 2025, the page is still live with those specs, but verify before you order if you're planning a critical application. My experience is based on about 15 orders of this model over the past two years.

2. What's the Edmund Optics 23-248 iris diaphragm used for?

The 23-248 is a precision iris diaphragm with a 25mm maximum aperture. We use them mostly in prototype optical setups—think beam control, light attenuation, or restricting field of view. It's a manual, continuously variable iris, not a motorized one.

To be fair, if you need automated control, this isn't it. But for lab work or R&D, I've found it reliable. Just note: it's not sealed, so dusty environments might be problematic. I can only speak to our clean-ish lab environment, though. If you're dealing with industrial dust, you might need a sealed unit.

3. Can you laser engrave clear acrylic? What settings work?

Yes, but with caveats. Clear acrylic (polymethyl methacrylate) can be laser engraved, but the results depend heavily on the laser type. For CO2 lasers (which is what most 'laser engravers' are), clear acrylic is actually great—it produces a matte white engraving with good contrast.

For fiber lasers, it's trickier. Fiber lasers have trouble with clear acrylic because the wavelength passes through without absorption. I've seen people try marking it with additives, but honestly, that's where I'd say: for clear acrylic engraving, stick with CO2. That's what we do at our facility after trying both. We tested this in Q3 2024 with a 60W CO2 laser at 80% power, 250mm/s speed, and got clean results.

4. What should I look for in a laser cut machine for our shop?

Ah, the big question. I've been through two laser cutter purchases since 2021. Here's what I tell colleagues:

  • Laser type: CO2 for non-metals (wood, acrylic, fabrics); fiber or Nd:YAG for metals.
  • Wattage: 40-60W for hobby/small shop; 100W+ for production cutting of thicker materials.
  • Bed size: Match to your typical workpiece. We got a 24"x36" bed—perfect for most of our signage and parts.
  • Cooling: Chiller or air-cooled? We regretted not getting a chiller initially.

One thing I wish I'd known: check the software compatibility. Some cheaper machines use proprietary software that's a hassle. Our current setup uses LightBurn, which is much better than the OEM software on our first machine. That first machine cost us $2,400 in wasted time and frustration before we switched.

5. How do I laser engrave a photo on wood?

This is actually doable, but it's not just "print and go." Here's my process (based on about 50 photo engravings over the last year):

  • Image prep: Convert your photo to grayscale, then adjust contrast so the dark areas are distinct. I use GIMP (free).
  • Dithering: Most laser software uses dithering to simulate shades. I use Floyd-Steinberg dithering at 300 DPI.
  • Wood type: Maple or birch ply works best—light woods show contrast better. Avoid dark woods like walnut for photos.
  • Speed/Power: For a 60W CO2 laser, start at 50% power, 300mm/s. Too slow and you'll burn it; too fast and it'll be faint.

The first few attempts might look rough. My first photo engraving of a company logo was so bad I had to scrap the plaque. But once you dial it in, it's satisfying. The best part: when a coworker asked for a photo of their dog and it came out looking like a real photograph—that was the payoff.

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Jane Smith

Jane Smith

I’m Jane Smith, a senior content writer with over 15 years of experience in the packaging and printing industry. I specialize in writing about the latest trends, technologies, and best practices in packaging design, sustainability, and printing techniques. My goal is to help businesses understand complex printing processes and design solutions that enhance both product packaging and brand visibility.

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